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Short course Topics
Starting Right - essential skills for hand tools
Most
amateurs are not getting the most out of their hand
tools. This week is designed to radically improve basic
skills. Most planes should be viewed as a crude kit of
parts. You will not believe the improvement in
performance that can be achieved. See below for a more
detailed description of the week.
Dovetails
On this
course we will work through a series of different
dovetail joints, starting with a through dovetail
exercise. These dovetails are found at the back of
drawers and in boxes and carcases.
A well tuned
dovetail saw cuts straight. It is possible to tune a
western saw which usually has too much set.
We will then work on single lap dovetails, which are
found at the front of drawers, the base of a carcase and
often in tables with drawers. The joints will be cut
with hand tools, but I will also demonstrate a technique
for cutting sockets on the bandsaw. If time permits, we
will also have a go at my favourite secret mitre
dovetail.
By analysing your technique at every stage, it should be
possible to work towards an exhibition quality result.
We will discover the importance of good preparation,
precise marking out, accurate cutting and sharp chisels.
Timber will be supplied , but you will need to bring
your own hand tools.
Drawer Making and Fitting
This is
intended to further develop your skills and is only
suitable for those who have completed the Dovetailing
course. We will make and fit the smartest arts and craft
style drawer, with a flush drawer slip.
Starting
Right-Tool Tuning: Essential techniques for sharp tools.
(5 days) The
aim of this course is to get your tools working as well
as mine! It is similar to Bruce Luckhurst's tool
technology weekend. However the extra time allows us to
deal more thoroughly with the topics.
Every year
at the Axminster show I see people's jaws dropping with
amazement when they use my planes and chisels.
The planes take tissue thin shavings (0.001" thick) with
practically no effort, leaving a polished surface which
cannot be improved by sanding. The chisels leave a
polished surface and cut with minimum effort.
It is
unfortunate that plane and chisel manufacturers do not
tell us that their tools do not work "straight out of
the box". A more serious issue is that a plane with a
hollow in the length of the sole will not plane a
straight edge with a fine shaving.
On long
course, I want my students working with tools that
function as well as mine within the first week. Plane
fettling to produce this result takes about two days. It
is very beneficial to replace the standard blade with a
thick, high quality replacement iron. The new materials
available today will hold an edge for three to five
times longer than a carbon steel blade. Cryogenically
treated A2 blades are available from Lie-Nielsen, Karl
Holtey and Ron Hock. (The Victor blade from Clifton is
the best of the carbon steel blades.)
We deal with
chisel sharpening, grinding and preparation on Monday.
The requirements for "sharpness" are investigated with
the aid of a 50x microscope. The main work is to prepare
a flat polished back, removing all trace of the
manufacturers grinding marks. I prefer Japanese water
stones as they are affordable, cut faster than any other
medium and produce the best edge. However they wear fast
and we must anticipate this wear in the way we use them.
It is fatal to use a water stone in the same way one
uses an oil stone! Razor sharp edges are more a question
of equipment and technique than years of skill and
practice.
On Tuesday
morning we learn a reliable and repeatable method of
producing a curved edge on a plane blade. I explain the
need for a curved edge and the benefits of changing the
amount of curve for different types of work. We also
start to investigate the reasons why our planes do not
work well. You strip your plane down to its component
parts and start to fettle them. Seating the frog to the
body casting provides a firm base for the blade and
reduces sole distortion. The top surface of the frog
often fails to support the blade because it is hollow at
the critical point where the centre of the blade is
supported. Every working part is improved and the
chipbreaker needs considerable work.
After final
assembly the sole is flattened on a large sheet of
"float" glass using a series of aluminium oxide abrasive
grits. Your plane is usually ready to test by Wednesday
evening or Thursday morning.
We then
learn how to use it to prepare an accurate face side
free from bumps or wind (twist). The squaring of an
accurate face edge is followed by methods of marking and
planing end grain. (Block plane, bench plane and
shooting). The next job is to gauge and bring the work
to thickness which can easily be done to better than
0.004". I usually leave the work about 3mm over width
and bring this dimension to size last.
On Friday I
hope to demonstrate marking out techniques and some
sawing and dovetailing work, this involves several
methods of accurate chisel use. There is not always
time. It depends on how much deviation has occurred!
Some groups have a tendency to discuss general workshop
issues, the whole of cabinetmaking and the meaning of
life, instead of concentrating on the job in hand.
I often have
to persuade people of the virtues of this course. We do
not make anything! However these skills are the
fundamental platform for building everything. It is
impossible to build exhibition quality furniture without
mastering these skills. If the basics are not right,
errors have an unhappy knack of accumulating through the
job.
This course will revolutionize the way you work wood.
Things to bring-
It is essential to bring your own bench plane and a
couple of chisels. The most useful bench plane in my
opinion is a No 5 1/2 or No 5. Lower numbers are fine,
the No 6 is heavier while a No 7 or No 8 can take a huge
amount of time to flatten and are beyond the scope of
this course.
Modern
Stanley & Record planes are poorly made and though we
can improve them radically, older ones are preferable.
Lie-Nielsen planes require little work, Clifton a good
deal more.
We can also tune up block planes. Stanley & Record
numbers 60 1/2 and 09 1/2 are useful. Lie-Nielsen
adjustable mouth and fixed mouth block planes are
superb.
Old chisels are fine as long as the flat side is not
badly rust pitted or worn convex in the length. I have
supplies of Japanese bench and paring chisels if you
would like try one.
Optional tools to bring if you have them are; engineers
set square, marking knife, steel rule, marking gauge(s),
honing guide, sharpening stones. Note book and pencils
are essential, some short pieces of hardwood to practice
with are helpful, about one foot long, three to four
inches wide, 3/4 inch thick. It is always interesting to
see photos of your work, plans or work in progress!
Please
discuss any tool problems with me, well before you
arrive. I may be able to order planes, replacement
blades or chisels for you if there is sufficient time.
Some Japanese chisels and saws, bought through me - have
a significant discount.
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